The Loire Valley is often regarded as the cradle of biodynamics. It was here that Nicolas Joly first began applying the ideas of Rudolf Steiner to viticulture, and the region later became home to some of the early - now legendary - figures fully devoted to biodynamic farming, such as Noel Pinguet of Domaine Huet.
At the same time, the Loire has always nurtured a strong spirit of individuality and self-expression. Today, the region is deeply intertwined with the natural wine movement. Names like Claude Courtois, Olivier Cousin, Patrick Desplats, and Jean-Pierre Robinot are well known to many within the scene.
Jerome Saurigny, who has been working along the banks of the Layon since 2005, is also an important member of this close-knit community. One of the most inspiring aspects of the natural wine movement is the genuine friendship and solidarity among its winemakers. They regularly come together to share experiences, exchange practical advice, and explore - collectively - the ever-evolving mysteries of biodynamic farming and low-intervention winemaking.
Jérôme studied winemaking in Bordeaux, where the curriculum focused heavily on conventional techniques. Making wine without additives—especially without cultured yeasts—was never even discussed. Even during his school years, he felt uneasy about the routine use of such products. So when he took a job in Pomerol in 2000, at the end of his training, he became particularly intrigued by the permaculture practices of neighboring Chateau Cheval Blanc, which offered a strikingly different perspective.
At first, his plan was to find a small estate in the Dordogne while continuing to work in Bordeaux. But a turning point came when his brother introduced him to the then newly established Les Griottes in the Loire Valley. Listening to the experiences of Patrick Desplats and Babass—and, even more convincingly, tasting their wines—made him realize that producing wine without additives was not only possible, but viable.
Soon after, he had the opportunity to take over a small estate in the Loire whose owner had just retired. With guidance and support from Les Griottes, he began crafting his wines with minimal intervention and no added sulfur from the outset—though in his earliest vintages he still added a small amount at bottling, a practice he fully abandoned after 2007.
When he took over the estate, it included a total of 12 hectares of vineyards. Over time, however, he reduced this to 6.5 hectares, choosing to focus exclusively on the best parcels.
The vineyards are planted with a range of varieties: Grolleau, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, Chenin Blanc, and Sauvignon Blanc. The largest single block covers two hectares and is planted with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, while the smallest parcel—just 0.3 hectares—is dedicated to Gamay.
Before and during harvest, Jérôme treats the grapes with exceptional care. Everything is done by hand—no machines are used - so as not to damage the fruit. In his view, mechanical harvesting can rupture the skins and accelerate oxidation, which ultimately hinders the wine’s development. That’s why he prefers to work with 100% whole bunches.
The intact clusters are placed in fiberglass vats, which are then sealed with a floating, airtight lid. At the bottom of each tank, he adds a small amount - around 50 liters - of freshly pressed juice. As fermentation begins, this juice generates CO₂, which fills the entire vessel by the next day, creating a protective environment. In recent years, he has extended his maceration times significantly: depending on the wine, the grapes may remain on the skins anywhere from three weeks to as long as four months.
After several vintages affected by severe frost, Jérôme began co-fermenting different grape varieties, creating blends that blur the traditional boundaries between white and red wines. He also employs a “flotation” technique inspired by Daniel Sage. In this method, whole grape clusters are submerged directly into freshly pressed juice - an inventive variation on carbonic maceration, where the juice itself effectively replaces externally added CO₂.
